Company/Designer Name: Brooke Kanani/Brooke Sachs
Designer Background Summary: My name is Brooke Kanani Kahealani Sachs and I am a jewelry designer and maker. I apprenticed for four years with an old world craftsman from Poland. He taught me that anything is possible with a little time and determination. My pieces are made by hand from start to finish, including clasps, hinges, and chains. I was trained in the lost wax method of casting, which began with my college studies in sculpture.
How did you get started? While I was in my last year of college my mother became friends with Marek Zamojski, who is an old world craftsman in jewelry. One of Marek’s first jobs was setting stones in crowns for the royal court in Poland. Once I had graduated I was introduced to Marek and spent my waking hours for the next four years in his studio as an apprentice. The studio was located in an historic mill building about 5 minutes from my home in Rhode Island. Sculpture was always my favorite medium. Marek encouraged me to stick with my own sculptural style and gave me expert technical guidance. He always told me that I understood engineering and that I reminded him of himself as an emerging designer. Marek also encouraged me to make everything painstakingly by hand, from start to finish.
What inspires your designs? Many of my inspirations are derived from nature. I grew up on the beach yet also in the forest. Ever since I can remember I have been collecting natural objects that I viewed as beautiful. I now have a vehicle in which to showcase them. I am intrigued by the anthropomorphic quality of trees, the ripples in the sand that are left behind by the waves or wind, bones, shells, rocks, horseshoe crabs, seedpods, birds, animals, and many other things that we tend to take for granted in our demanding lives. The juxtaposition of these objects with the refined qualities of precious metals and stones is a way of paying homage to nature in a way that I truly see fit. Everyone can relate to these objects, they are everywhere if we slow down for a moment and take a look around.
How would you describe your design style, design signature and who is your targeted customer? Fine jewelry that is in nature, modern, and timeless. My targeted customer is anyone who appreciates fine jewelry.
What designers inspire you? I am inspired by an array of individuals. Some are designers, some artists, and some are people who are doing what they love. My list includes: Christophe Decarnin, Nicolas Ghesquière, Jean Paul Gaultier, Isabel Marant, Hermes, Dries Van Noten, Louise Bourgeois, Charlotte Casiraghi, Daria Werbowy, Carla Bruni, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Emmanuelle Alt, Lulu de la Falaise, Frank Gehry, Cartier, Georg Arthur Jensen, Auguste Rodin, Leonardo Da Vinci, and Jacques Lipchitz, to name a few.
What obstacles did you have to overcome? I used to be very introverted. I still am. For the first year or two that I was making jewelry, if someone were to comment on a ring or a bracelet that I was wearing, my response was always “thank you”. I couldn’t bring myself to tell the person that I actually made the piece of jewelry that they were commenting on. After a while of friends speaking up for me, I realized that I needed to take control. That it was positive to talk about my jewelry, engage people, it was more intriguing than being the shy kid in the corner.
How did you overcome them? It seemed like it happened over night. One day I woke up and decided that I wasn’t going to let my friends talk about my jewelry for me. Saying it now seems weird, that I was shy about it in the first place. Slowly but surely I came to the realization that my jewelry is very legit, people are interested in it, and I was now required to vocalize my artistic expression.
What has been your greatest moment on your journey so far? Making a clasp and hinge system that actually worked.
What has been the biggest change in your designs so far? I would say that my work has become more refined. Early works are sometime the best works, and I will always look back at them for reference. I have always taken chances with using unconventional materials such as shells, seedpods, horseshoe crabs (no I don’t scour the shallow water hunting them down, I collect them off the rocks after they have dried out for a week or so), and cedar apple galls (tree fungus). I am now comfortable in saying that these materials have become part of my signature.
If money were no object what would you do right now? Go out and buy 2 Balmain blazers, one for my mother and one for myself. I might even wear it while sitting at my bench making jewelry; my mother would probably get oil paint on hers.
What are the best and worst things about being a designer? The best thing would probably be that you are able make ANYTHING that you want to. And tell any story that you wish to tell. You have the whole world at your fingertips. The downside is, it becomes overwhelming. You love some pieces; you hate some pieces. A lot of the time the ones you dislike are the ones others adore. Sometimes it’s a really lonely place. My dreams are big I have something to prove to myself…
Describe your typical day? My day begins with tea. I consume a lot of tea throughout the day, mostly hot, sometimes iced. I eat when I’m hungry. I spend as much of the day outside as possible. I enjoy riding my fixed-gear bicycle. I usually stop at the beach for a while; absorb some vitamin D and breathe in some negative ions. I will draw, or write while I am there, depending on the temperature and the direction of the wind. After this I will probably have some more tea. I usually work on jewelry once the sun goes down until my focus blurs. Sometimes I have a hard time sitting still and concentrating when the sun is still shining. This is starting to get abstract. I also enjoy snowboarding.
What is your philosophy of life? Anything is possible. Smile and be nice.
If you could do it all over again, what would you do differently? I like the way things have turned out so far. I have learned a lot. And it has made me who I am today.
When will you know you have made it? I’m not sure. I think I will know when it happens. Sunday, Monday, Tuesday? It’s the creative process.
