Noblivity Spotlights Stephanie Kuhr
Company/Designer: Dottie’s Delights/Stephanie Kuhr
Designer Background Summary:
I grew up just outside of Chicago with a love of all things vintage. I just wanted to own an antique and vintage clothing store when I grew up. But that was not a major in college, so I decided I’d try out fashion design. I went to New York City to the Fashion Institute of Technology for two years, then transferred back to my home city to finish my degree at The School of the Art Institute of Chicago when I felt I needed a bit more creativity in the curriculum. I think the two schools were a great balance of technical/practical vs. creative/avante garde. For my senior thesis, I had grown tired of the unrealistic model body types and decided to lash out with a Dante’s Inferno inspired burlesque show down the runway, and my love of lingerie was instantly born.
How did you get started?
After graduating, I took some time off and went into the theater costuming world for awhile, learning a third side of the apparel spectrum, about tricks and fine-tuning handmade clothing and surrounding myself with other people who appreciated historical accuracy. Then I would stay in the shop after hours and taught myself how to make those beautiful bustiers, bullet bras, and girdles. I worked with burlesque and belly dance performers, as well as pin-up models and brides for custom made pieces and slowly built up a line quietly on the side. It wasn’t until I found the Chicago Fashion Incubator, an amazing non-profit year long program for 6 designers, that I was able to fully launch the company into wholesale and focus on Dottie’s Delights full time.
What inspires your designs?
I am totally inspired by the craftsmanship and attention to detail that comes from mid-century garments. They were functional and beautiful and for me that create a real sense of empowerment that comes with the control and sexiness and confidence in wearing them. I am constantly scouring images of undergarments from the 1960’s and earlier. I’m also totally inspired by the burlesque performers both past and present. I think the revival scene is so encouraging for women’s self image. They are smart and sexy and confident, they love the body they have and every woman on that stage is different.
How would you describe your design style, design signatures and who is your targeted customer?
Dottie’s Delights is high end vintage inspired foundation wear that celebrates curves. We focus on shapewear that you actually will want to be seen in! Our signature piece is the girdle skirt, it is perfect for wearing under your special occasion dresses when you want that nipped waist with a smoothed backside and hips. Our target customer is a strong woman with a classic aesthetic that wants to be sexy and classy at the same time. Women who appreciate their curves and know how to work them!
What designers inspire you?
Any of the designers from the 20’s-60’s. I was never one to follow designer brands, I love the smaller lesser known labels just as much as the big names. A garment with quality materials and construction is far more important than the name attached to it.
What obstacles did you have to overcome?
I didn’t have a lot of fashion industry community around me when I first started creating the line. Without that support group, it’s easy to get overwhelmed and lost with all of the different aspects you have to manage on your own when starting a business.
How did you overcome them?
Finally finding a peer group to discuss challenges and roadblocks, even just to “talk shop” is so incredibly helpful in moving forward and to de-stress, you realize you are not the only one facing these issues.
What has been your greatest moment on your journey so far?
There have been so many, and there are so many more to come!
What has been the biggest change in your designs so far?
While new styles are of course constantly added, the basic design ideas will remain the same. I think as with many other small designers, I was surprised with just how much production costs for local manufacturing, but at the same time I think it is very important to support your local economy as well as keep the quality and technique as authentic as possible. It results in a very high end product, but I think it is worth it and my pieces will last a long time even with extensive wear.
If money were no object what would you do right now?
Hire an entire development team to grade my bra designs into a full size range with fit testing on all of them! Or, maybe a marketing and research team to transform the sizing structure to one that was less confusing for everyone. As much as I love old-timey things, I think it’s time for a revamp of the outdated system.
What are the best and worst things about being a designer?
I love the diversity in my day to day tasks. I love being able to set my own schedule, however that usually ends up being working all day everyday.
